Dublin is full of ghosts — not the frightening kind, but the kind that sit beside you and start talking.
— Conor McPherson
The glorious republic of Ireland offer charms in all its corners, and though many visitors race right through its capital city, Dublin provides plenty of satisfying pursuits. Its compact center, nearby neighborhoods, labyrinthe layout, and pleasant public transit system make it an ideal place to explore on foot. It’s street after street of incredible pubs draw tipplers from all over the world. There’s eclectic dining, pleasant parks, unique architecture, good shopping, a raucous sports scene, and extraordinary outdoor excursions. Plus there’s historic museums, castles, breweries, distilleries, literary haunts, legendary live music, and unforgettable characters at every turn.
That being said, there isn’t a single grandiose spectacle or landmark or cuisine that you come all this way to witness. You’ll meet magical people and have the time of your life, but something about the island’s limits keep the vibe of the city grounded. It can be a little melancholy, but its also generous, imaginative, and very alive. Dublin is less of a postcard city and more of a lived-in conversation; a character portrait rather than a skyline. At every turn you are sure to encounter talkative Dubliners with stories to tell that feature miraculous twists of phrase. The city makes its mark not through monumental memories, but by way of intimate, everyday happenings that occur through heavy conversations, rewarding strolls, and transcendent pints at a pub.
Pubs
An Irish pub is a place equally suited to fostering connections, drowning sorrows, contemplating strategies, or celebrating the pinnacles of human experience. In Ireland, the pub both anchors and lubricates the community it serves, and in Dublin you will discover its various forms. Some are grand and reveal a time when the layout segregated the wealthy and working classes into various rooms and partitioned nooks called “snugs.” Others are more spartan, unpretentious and get down to the business of drinking. Inside you’ll find revelers from the world over mingling with locals from all walks of life. Here are some of the great, Dublin classics.
• Toner’s Pub - Perhaps my favorite Dublin pub that dates back to 1734 with a traditional front bar and a never-ending ramble of more modern drinking areas in the back.
• Doheny & Nesbitt - Quite magnificent Victorian pub with many floors and many places to get lost in conversation.
• Mulligan’s - Reputed to have the best pint of Guinness in the world.
• The Long Hall - Grand ol’ drinking hall.
• The Palace Bar - Incredible bar with atmospheric back room.
• Stag’s Head - Duck through the alcove and find this gem just off the main drag.
• McDaid’s - Great pub just off Grafton Street.
• Dawson Lounge - Tiny, subterranean, bliss.
Eats
Over the last quarter century, Ireland has diversified greatly, created immense wealth, and expanded its dining scene far beyond the traditional chipper. While there are plenty of impeccable restaurants and deletable cuisines to choose from, one low-fi item that I am particularly fond of is the humble “Chip Butty.” The lowly Abrekebabra fast food chain has this item on the menu which consists of a french fries slathered in mayonnaise and stuffed into a french baguette. Here are some other arguably more respectable joints:
• Peploe’s - Fancy high end city center dining
• The Ivy - Bustling, vibrant, grand dining room
• Bar Pez - Irish-sourced tapas
• Loose Cannon - Natural wine and toasties
• Abrakebabra - Messy, late night, fast food spot, good for a “Chip Butty”
Sessions
Stumbling into an Irish pub and encountering a lively traditional Irish music session with some mix of fiddle, flute, whistle, spoons, pipes, mandolin, and frame drum is one of the joys of life. Unfortunately, it’s becoming more of a rarified treat in the city, but here’s a few places where you will find some action:
• Cobblestone
• O’Donoghue’s
• Darkey Kelly’s
Explore
You’ll be tempted to drink all day, every day, in Dublin, so it helps to have some non-drinking excursions on hand. Here are a few things worth exploring to take in some culture (and then maybe reminisce about your learnings over a pint).
• Merrion Square/Oscar Wilde sculpture/Georgian Architecture/Pepper Canister Church - If you walk in and around the quaint Merrion Square Park, its fun to seek out the soused and splayed out Oscar Wilde sculpture, but you will also be rewarded with some highlights of Georgian architecture from the view of symmetrical row houses along Mount Street Upper towards the iconic “Pepper Canister” church.
• Book of Kells - This 1200+ year old venerated ceremonial object visually conveyed Christian stories for an illiterate populace through magnificent medieval illustrations of remarkable craftsmanship, detail and vibrancy, all created from natural rare pigments harvested and prepared by monks. It is displayed in an equally magnificent vaulted hall library of rare books at Trinity college.
• St. Stephens Green - Tranquil civic gem in the heart of the city center perfect for a leisurely stroll.
• Ha’Penny Bridge - Take in the views of the River Liffey and city center architecture from this 209 year old pedestrian bridge which used to cost a “half-penny” to cross until 1919.
• MoLi - A museum dedicated to Ireland’s profound contributions to literature including legendary writers such as Joyce, Yeats, Wilde, Beckett, and Swift as well as more modern talent.
• Afternoon Tea - The ultimate genteel tea experience can be had at the Shelbourne Hotel in the Lord Mayor’s Lounge
• Guinness Storehouse Brewery and Jameson Distillery - If you are a fan of either of these world famous beverages, it is certainly worth taking the tour of their respective facilities, although if time is limited, I personally enjoy taking them in their natural environment of a local pub.
• Little Museum of Dublin - A wonderful quirky welcome to the city.
Local Adventure
Dublin’s proximity to water offers some rather unique coastline adventures.
• The Forty Foot - This is a historic outdoor free and public bathing spot in the neighborhood of Sandycove where people enjoy YEAR-ROUND cold swimming dips into the Dublin Bay. The welcoming community of bathers is ever present and the tradition harkens back to at least James Joyce’s day where he perfectly described the sea as “scrotumtightening.”
• Howth Hike - For an easily-accessible and absolutely perfect escape from the city which you can do without a car, take the DART to the northern terminus where you will arrive in the quaint and scenic port town of Howth. Walk ten minutes through town and you’ll arrive at a secluded trail known as the Howth Cliff Walk which cuts through lush green vegetation and wildflowers as it clings to the land hundreds of feet above the sea. It and offers spectacular views of surrounding islands, lighthouses, and wildlife. Cap it all off with a pint and some chowder when you wind back into town.
• Golf - If golf is your thing, there are many world class courses within 45 minutes of Dublin city center. Portmarnock and Royal Dublin to the north of the city have hosted many professional tournaments for over 100 years, and Blainroe is a one of many great courses that hug the coastline south of the city.
Sport
From horses to hurling, Dublin offers many chances to see some unique sports in action and any visit to the city will be enhanced by attending an event. The modern Aviva Stadium (capacity: 51,700) is tucked into a leafy south side neighborhood and hosts soccer, rugby and concerts. The larger Croke Park stadium (capacity: 82,300) is a Gaelic games stadium on the north side and hosts Gaelic Football, Hurling, and other events. Leopardstown Racecourse is Dublin’s premiere horse track for thrilling race days.
• Irish National Football Teams
• Irish Rugby Football Union
• Leinster Rugby
• Gaelic Athletic Association - Gaelic football, hurling, handball, camogie (the female version of hurling), rounders, etc
• Horse Racing Ireland
Local Wares
Here’s a random list of unique things worth trying or buying while in Dublin.
• Taytos - The ultimate potato chip, can be found at any shop in town.
• Starbar - It’s just caramel, peanuts, nougat and chocolate, but it has a perfect bite that is somehow smooth and crunchy at the same time.
• Boxty - This traditional Irish Potato pancake is worth a try.
• Strawberry Fluff - Encountered this strawberry version of the marshmallow spread in Dublin.
• Sudocrem - Whatever this stuff is, my wife swears by it.
• My beloved “Chip Butty” - Consider one late night from Abrakebabra.
• Guinness - You can do no wrong.
• Cadbury Whole Nut Dairy Milk Bar (Irish Version) - The Irish versions of the famous Cadbury chocolates use fresh grass-fed cow’s milk and are generally considered to be creamier.
• Irish National Rugby Jersey - Enduring classic.
• A match scarf - If you happen to be in town when a major sporting event is happening, consider buying a match scarf to commemorate the occasion.
• Sweny’s Lemon Soap - In the Lotus Eaters chapter of James Joyce’s, Ulysses, Leopold Bloom is drawn to the lemony scent of the soaps on the counter of this still-standing pharmacy. He proceeds to buy a bar and carries it in his pocket for the rest of the day as he wanders through Dublin.
• Something from Ulysses Rare Books - Anyone have $50k for a signed first edition Ulysses?
• Murphy’s Brown Bread Ice Cream - Brown bread isn’t necessarily that special, but this ice cream flavor sure is.
• Richie’s Wine Gums - Wine gums were created by Englishman, Charles Gordon Maynard, who wanted to develop a sophisticated sweet for adults that could be savored like a fine wine. Richie’s is a brand that he spun off for Ireland and the name refers to the lingering, rich flavors. Charles’ father was a strict Methodist and teetotaler who who was initially horrified by the name, “wine gums”, fearing his son was making sweets with alcohol, and his son had to convince him that the sweets contained no wine or alcohol before his father would agree to their sale.
• Dublin Artist stuff from Jam Factory - a good spot to find local art.
• Hephee T - Always on point Irish illustrator.
• Drumshambo Gunpowder Irish Gin - The distinctive gunpowder green tea is used in the distilling of this tasty spirit.
• A good tea mug - Irish designer, Orla Kiely, makes some great ones.
• The only Massive Map of Dublin - This map manages to tell a thousand stories about Dublin.
Stay
Stay at The Shelbourne or The Merrion for ultimate luxury and proximity to the city center, or get into the local groove with a stay at Gleeson’s which is a boutique hotel nestled in a neighborhood on the south side of Dublin.
• The Shelbourne
• The Merrion
• Gleeson’s
For a city that has averaged less than a million people over the last century, Dublin punches far above its weight when it comes to globally-recognized writers, musicians, artists, actors and famous figures. Here’s a few that were born or raised in Dublin:
Literature & Arts
James Joyce: Iconic novelist (Ulysses).
Oscar Wilde: Playwright & wit (The Importance of Being Earnest).
Samuel Beckett: Nobel Prize-winning playwright (Waiting for Godot).
Jonathan Swift: Satirist (Gulliver’s Travels).
Maeve Binchy: Beloved novelist.
Francis Bacon: Influential painter.
William butler Yeats: Poet, writer, dramatist
George Bernard Shaw: witty playwright who is one of two people to win a Nobel Prize and an Academy Award (the other is Bob Dylan)
Brendan Behan: witty, rebellious playwright and poet
Bram Stoker: Dracula, anyone?
Music
Bono: U2 frontman & philanthropist.
Sinéad O’Connor: Powerful singer-songwriter.
Phil Lynott: Thin Lizzy frontman, born in the UK, but moved to Dublin at age eight.
Niall Horan: Former One Direction member, solo artist.
Grian Chatten: Frontman of Dublin-based, Fontaine’s DC, who was born in England, but moved to Ireland at one month old
Ronan Tynan: Irish Tenor fame
Kevin Shields: Musician, songwriter, producer for My Bloody Valentine who was born in New York, but moved to Dublin at age ten.
Bob Geldof: musician, activist
Film & Television
Colin Farrell: Actor (In Bruges, The Banshees of Inisherin).
Brendan Gleeson: Actor (In Bruges, Harry Potter).
Pierce Brosnan: Actor raised north of Dublin (James Bond, Mamma Mia!).
Andrew Scott: Actor (Sherlock, All of Us Strangers).
Gabriel Byrne: Actor (The Usual Suspects).
Domhnall Gleeson: Actor (Star Wars, About Time).
Jonathan Rhys Meyers: Actor (The Tudors).
Aidan Gillen: Actor (Game of Thrones).
Saoirse Ronan: Brooklyn-born Actress who was raised in Howth, County Dublin (Lady Bird, Little Women, Brooklyn, Atonement, The Grand Budapest Hotel, and Mary Queen of Scots)
A Spotify playlist of Dublin and Ireland-adjacent music.
Dublin Meaning
The name “Dublin” comes from the Irish Gaelic name, “Dubh Linn.”—“Dubh” is “black/dark” and “Linn” is “pool.”—referring to a specific physical location of one of the earliest settlements by Vikings who identified a dark tidal pool where the River Poddle met the River Liffey, near the modern day Dublin Castle.
Pub Origins
The word “pub” is a shortening of “public house” which was a term that emerged in late 17th century England to distinguish buildings open to everyone from private residences. These early pubs were remnants of the Roman empire’s extension into England where they established “tabernae” which were roadside alehouses for travelers and gathering places for locals dating back as far as 43 AD. Today, the oldest pub in the world is widely recognized as “Sean’s Bar” in Athlone, Ireland about 75 miles west of Dublin with continuous records dating back to 900 AD.
The Red Guinness Tankard Sign
Many Dublin pubs feature a red Guinness sign on its exterior. The red color is significant because although Guinness appears black in color, when held up to a light you will notice that the liquid is actually deep ruby red. The sign design originated in the late 1950s and featured a Waterford crystal tankard glass of a perfectly-poured Guinness to coincide with the rollout of the nitrogenated Guinness Draught. The nostalgic, vintage look was re-issued around 2015.
Backstory
A few years out of college I found myself behind a desk in Detroit making advertisements for car dealers in Tulsa and San Diego. It was a great job for a young man trying to get a career off the ground. But I was eager to explore the world. Thanks to a series of fortunate events, open-minded parents, generous Irish relatives, as well as a girlfriend (now wife) who was game for anything, I found myself living in Dublin, Ireland at the turn of the millennium. We stayed about 9 months and I have returned numerous times for family weddings and vacations, so I somewhat know my way around the town.
I am eternally grateful to my wife, Jen, and her extended Irish family, for their incredible generosity and hospitality which made our original landing in the city—and every visit thereafter—a cherished experience. I want to extend thanks especially to my Dublin hosts, Helen, Margaret and Jimmy, Liam and Julie, Sarah, Ruth, Liam and Karen, John and Orlaith, Emmett and Lisa, Grainne and Graham, Barry, Aideen, Eimear, Niamh, Anna and Aaron, and Ray.