Nougat Loaf Connoisseur
Memorable foods and drinks of late.
Before we get on with the year ahead, I wanted to share some of the memorable food and drink that I came across this year. This isn’t a “best-of” list. It’s more of a summary of great tastes—and ultimately moments—from restaurants and shops that left an impression on me. There’s fancy stuff and not-so-fancy stuff here, and all of these are things you can seek out if you’re looking for something to do during these slow winter months.
Glazed Pork Brisket, Herb and Sea, Encinitas, California - Pork, pomegranate, raita, pickled peppadew, mustard frill. Tender, crispy, colorful, juicy, hot, savory, sweet, all the above.
Panna Cotta, Houndstooth, Benton Harbor, Michigan - One of the best restaurants in the Midwest produces this dessert which features rows of miniature birch tree meringues that float atop a puddle of passionfruit panna cotta to create a work of art that would be just as good displayed on a wall as it is to devour.
Nougat Bar, Park to Shop Hong Kong Market, Chicago - Stumbled upon this Korean frozen dessert inside an Asian market in Chicago. Things like this more often fail than delight, but this treat was awesome with its nougat shell draping a vanilla ice cream center.
Sausage, egg and cheese breakfast sandwich, Loaf Lounge, Chicago - This looks like a typical breakfast sandwich, and sounds like a typical breakfast sandwich, but everything about those familiar components is elevated to the utmost which makes it an outstanding breakfast sandwich.
Butterfinger Pie, Trivoli Tavern, Chicago - There is a dramatic theatricality to this restaurant which starts before you even walk in the door. It begins once you wander down a moody cobblestone alley to the entrance, then take a couple turns before the dining room reveals itself as if you are walking on stage to star in your own play. Eventually, dessert comes in the form of this foot tall Butterfinger pie. Down it. Take a bow. Dream pleasant dreams.
The Connoisseur, Geja’s, Chicago - Geja’s is a fondue restaurant with a transportative atmosphere that is worth visiting every few years, especially in winter when this sort of dining experience can feel like a jaunt to a Swiss alpine chalet. There’s candlelit coves, live Flamenco guitar, and boiling urns of creamy Gruyere and Belgian chocolate at every table. The bar alone is worth a stop.
Egg and chorizo empanada, Cafe Tola, Chicago - There are a few outposts of this Mexican cafe in Chicago, and I have a soft spot for its smallest location on Southport. Whichever one you visit, do not miss out on the homemade emapandas which are the best in town.
Deluxe Foccacia, Avec, Chicago - Avec just celebrated its 20th anniversary, and this classic dish which coalesces taleggio, ricotta and truffle oil to glorious effect has been on the menu since day one.
Liquid Olive, Jaleo, Chicago - This magical little olive blob offers a chance to get a taste of a dish that was available in a far away restaurant that was number one in the world for a while: El Bulli, in Spain. It’s basically a liquid olive that somehow holds itself together befure bursting in your mouth with a totally unique flavor sensation.
Buttermilk Pancakes, Oaks Eatery, Three Oaks, Michigan - They were just plain old pancakes, but they were pretty much the best possible version anyone could conjure up. Pure maple syrup and swaths of whipped butter ooze over an ever-so-golden crust that conceals a pillowy center.
Udder Butter ice cream, Cook’s Farm Dairy, Ortonville, Michigan - Chocolate and peanut butter homemade ice cream bliss from this family owned dairy farm with its own drive-thru window.
Homemade Mozzarella, Farina’s Supper Club, Michiana Shores, Indiana - This was my first time experiencing homemade mozzarella. The chef from Farina’s literally made batches in front of us at a special event, and the warm, svelte texture felt like a rare treat.
Dutch Crunch, Basque Boulangerie, Sonoma, California - In any given year, if I’m lucky enough to visit my wife’s sister’s family in Sonoma and I get to ride a bike from their house into town and sit on the patio of the Basque Boulangerie to enjoy a coffee and a warm Dutch Crunch, then it’s been a good year.
Hot Giardiniera Sauce, Portillo’s, Chicago - What do we have here! The Chicago Italian staple of hot giardiniera relish transformed into creamy dipping sauce form for use on any of the various street foods from Portillos. Approved.
Alfajores, Dulzura Argenta Bakery, Isla Mujeres, Mexico - This little Argentinian cafe hidden away on the second floor of a building in the main village on Isla Mujeres felt like discovering a star in a distant solar system. You literally wander into the kitchen to order before enjoying great espresso and homemade pastries on a tranquil shaded patio bursting with foliage.
“Chicago Mix” Ice Cream, Pretty Cool, Chicago - You can find these packaged ice cream treats at gourmet markets around town, but the actual Pretty Cool shop on California Avenue is, well, pretty cool. Since they are all handmade in Chicago, the “Chicago Mix” is worth a try for its melding of salted caramel ice cream with a cheesy popcorn shell.
Mezze, Andros Taverna, Chicago - Everything from this Greek restaurant is so fresh and fabulous—halloumi, taramasalata, whipped feta, kalamaki. You really can’t go wrong with anything. Good luck getting passed the mezze portion of the menu.
L. St Smash, The Leavitt Street Inn & Tavern, Chicago - Dear Lord. This burger. There’s a sinful secret sauce, but what really sets it apart is the texture of the pressed meat which is somehow crusty with a gelatinous sheen.
Sticky Toffee Pudding, Our Harvest, Fenwick Island, Delaware - The textures of this dessert were off the charts with the creamy sphere of seasonal blueberry ice cream set atop a spongey cake base and drizzled with delicate shards of crunchy meringue.
Arancini Classico, Sfera, Chicago - These arancini of beef ragu, mozzarella, saffron risotto, and marinara did everything right.
Pepperoni Pizza, Patellie’s, Three Oaks, Michigan - This is one of the best pizzas around, made by a chef (Pat) who used to produce his own artisinal meats and his wife (Ellie) who knows a thing or two about sourcing the best possible everything.
Caviar Sandwich, Obelix, Chicago - This was an ultra luxurious treat, but it was Jen and my anniversary, so we decided to go for it. We’re glad we did because we both felt like it was the best thing we ate all year. A not so humble sandwich of caviar, two types of roe, an elegant cream, a perfectly toasted brioche and perhaps the best part was a layer of salt and vinegar chips to give a little extra crunch.
Rainbow Cone, Rainbow Cone, Chicago - Summer is not summer until you enjoy this nearly century old classic with ice cream “slices” stacked high of orange sherbet, pistachio, Palmer House, Strawberry, and chocolate which work remarkably well together.
Tiny Tabasco, Gibson’s, Chicago - I had never encountered these tiny single serving tabasco bottles before, but they were a perfect accompaniment with a platter of oysters at Gibson’s in Chicago.
Double espresso, La Prima Espresso Co, Pittsburgh - It was just a simple espresso taken on the sidewalk on a Sunday morning, but the overall vibe of this place on this day at this time was magical for reasons that are hard to describe. Of course the espresso was of the highest quality, and the glass saucer and cup that it was served in was satisfying in its form. But the people watching was top notch. There was the table of Italian old timers, the neighborhood buddies, the tourists, the artists, the couple out on a walk with their dog. Everyone separate but somehow together, mingling, enjoying their moments in the morning sun.
Yoli, Salsa’s Family Market, Chicago - This gem of a neighborhood bodega does many things well. There’s fresh produce, a coffee bar, a butcher counter, homemade sandwiches, soups, salsas, pastries, and wonderful service. It’s stocked with everything you need, really. All that being said, I was truly astonished when i stumbled upon bottles of Yoli on its shelves. This is a lime soda that is produced in Mexico and has a fresher zip to it than Sprite. In almost two decades of trips to Mexico, I’ve never seen it outisde of Acapulco until it showed up down the street from my house at Salsa’s.
Rosé de Xinomavró Apostolos Thymiopoulos 2021, Apero, Chicago - An orangey-gold rosé from northern Greece on the menu at a charming wine bar in my neighborhod. My wife loves rosé, and she’s Greek, so this is basically a double whammy of goodness.
Plazaburger, Plaza Tavern, Madison, Wisconsin - If the mysterious white-colored special sauce slathered on this dive bar burger doesn’t freak you out, it will leave you yearning four your next trip to this wonderful old time bar and grille.
Garlic and Rosemary Foccacia, Passatempo Taverna, Walla Walla, Washington - This little personal bread basket of joy showed up all hot and bothered with olive oil and it was fantastic.
“Thanksgiving” Sundae, Margie’s Candies, Chicago - There isn’t an item on the extensive Margie’s menu called the “Thanksgiving Sundae.” Rather, this is the name that my nine year old blissfully bestowed on the platter of dairy delights that was delivered to our table. He was blown away by the “gravy boats” of hot fudge and caramel sauce, ladle-like serving spoons, and oversized seashell full of whipped and iced creams.
