St. Patty's Strategies
So many pubs. So little time.
St. Patty’s weekend is upon us. There’s many sights to see, friends to meet, pints to down. You need a plan to make the most of the day. What’s your St. Patty’s Strategy?
In Chicago, St. Patty’s Day is a big deal. For well over 150 years the Irish have been a dominant force in the city’s politics, labor and communities. In the 1850s, 1/5th of the city consisted of residents of Irish ancestry, and since then about a quarter of the city’s 50+ mayors have have been of Irish descent.
Today the city is much more diverse, and the holiday of St. Patrick’s Day has evolved far beyond a single day and far beyond a celebration of Ireland’s patron saint. Now the holiday is a multi-day bacchanal of all things Irish, er, all things drinking.
Barring a rare 70 degree day in February, this mid-March day marks the moment when this city of three million people finally wakes up from its months-long winter slumber. People emerge, streets clog, pubs fill. Almost everyone seems to enjoy a pint at some point (Side note: that non-alcoholic Guinness is a delight). Camaraderie and drinking rule the day. Parades flank the north and south sides while the river that bisects the downtown transforms for a few fleeting hours into the most unbelievable shade of green. Leprechaun accessories abound along with trays of corned beef, pitchers of green beer, and piles of vomit. Things get messy, but overall the good outweighs the bad.
Since this day comes once a year, it’s wise to have a St. Patty’s Day strategy. Are you looking to party or avoiding the crowds? Seeking out the classic Irish pubs or making the dyed river a must-see? Gathering with family or connecting with old friends? Trekking across town or staying within walking distance of your front door? So many pubs. So little time. Here’s a few courses of action…
Seek out the Classics
Chicago has some wonderful, classic, tried and true Irish pubs that have been around a while.
Shinnick’s - Located on the south side near the White Sox stadium, Shinnick’s has been in operation since the 1890s and has been in the Shinnick family since 1938.
Fox’s - 55+ year old, family-owned and operated pub and pizza restaurant located on the far southwest side in Orland Park.
Kitty O’Shea’s - Forty year old pub tucked inside the Hilton on Michigan Avenue staffed by a steady influx of Irish.
Cork and Kerry - With a history that dates at least back to the 80s, this is a South Side Irish institution.
Barney Callaghan’s - On the far south side of Chicago, this pub has been around since the 80s, was completely reimagined in 2015, and offers some authentic Irish ambiance.
Timothy O’Toole’s - Sprawling Streeterville pub first opened in 1992.
Fado - Muli-level pub with a Disney-esque vibe that has been going strong since the 90s. It’s a commercialized mix of old and new. But hey, Disney was Irish.
O’Donovan’s - Established in 1999, this north side pub is like two pubs in one with a traditional wooden bar on one side and then a bright and airy loft-like second bar.
Celtic Crossing - If you play your cards right, you just might get locked into this River North bar, and that is a good thing.
Galway Arms - 20+ year old Irish pub inside a historic mansion in Lincoln Park with lots of nooks and crannies for craic and conversation.
The Kerryman - Owned by three gents who hail from County Kerry, Ireland, this Irish bar has been a hot corner in River North for decades as it was originally the Irish pub, McGovern’s, then a strip club, the Liberty Inn, then the original Chicago Punk bar, O’Banion’s, before reincarnating to its current day state as The Kerryman.
Hang with the Old Timers
If you’re longing to hear an authentic Irish brogue and want to increase your chances of hanging with people who were actually born in Ireland, there are two Irish Cultural Centers, one on the north side of town and one on the south side of town, where chances are high that you’ll encounter some locals from Leixlip, Kinsale or Farrenfore.
5th Province - Family-friendly pub inside the north side Irish cultural center.
Carraig Pub - This pub is located inside Gaelic Park on the far south side which hosts everything from weddings to hurling matches.
Pick a Strip
If you’re just looking to throw yourself into the raucous fray, then pick one of these strips where there are numerous bars—Irish and not so Irish—that will be bouncing the weekend of St. Patty’s Day.
Rush and Division in the Gold Coast
Butch McGuire’s, The Lodge, are always packed and festive. And just a couple blocks over, Dublin’s is where you are sure to find all sorts of crazy including an eclectic mix of revelers, pushers, hookers, cougars and drunks.
Clark Street in Wrigleyville
Amongst the mega bars along this stretch which will have lines out the door, the nearby Gingerman, Murphy’s, and Guthrie’s are worth ducking into.
Webster Avenue in Lincoln Park
There’s a nice little crawl that includes Glascott’s, Kelly’s, and McGee’s amongst others along this residential stretch near DePaul University.
Stay Classy
A few places that provide an elevated Irish pub experience…
Guinness Open Gate Brewery - They don’t brew Guinness here—that comes exclusively from the Dublin brewery—but they make a range of other good beers and also serve good food at this brewery near Randolph street. The grand setting of the taproom features a bar that is modeled after an Irish harp.
The Gage - This nicely appointed bar right on Michigan Avenue across the street from Millenium Park serves great food and pints.
The Dearborn - Stylish, modern bar in the heart of the Loop.
Avoid the Masses
Keenan O’Reilly’s - Pretty much as divey and under-the-radar as it gets. The ping pong table in the back is a nice touch.
Fuller’s Pub - Cash only Irish dive bar that, according to the sign out front, has been going strong since 1976.
Four Trey’s- Cash only, dog-friendly, family-owned. Probably not Irish, but for the sake of this list, let’s say it is.
Take Me to the River
It’s wise to work some non-drinking activity into your St. Patty’s Day strategy, and while the parades are nice, the fantastical fluorescence of the Chicago River on the Saturday morning before St.Patrick’s Day is a spectacle worth planning a day around. Here are a few spots within a block of the river…
Smith and Wollensky - This high end steakhouse is not Irish, but the bar sure has the right feel, and it sits right on the river with indoor and outdoor patio seating.
Lizzie McNeil’s - Right on the river with an added outdoor tented area for St. Patrick’s Day.
Shamrock Club - Wonderful little hole in the wall Irish pub in the shadow of the Merchandise Mart that has been going strong since 1989.
Emerald Loop - Expansive Irish bar walking distance from the river.
Bring the Kids
In Ireland it is not uncommon to see entire families at a pub, particularly on a Sunday. St. Patrick’s Day offers a chance to do the same in Chicago at a few establishments that have ample space and serve food.
Chief O’Neill’s - Sprawling indoor/outdoor pub is bedecked in from floor to ceiling in green lights that’s sure to dazzle all comers.
Mrs. Murphy & Sons - The main room features a wonderful central square bar, a fireplace, and often features live music. There’s a great shop in front that is stocked exclusively with Irish goods. Hello, Star Bar.
Porter Cullen’s - Charming neighborhood Irish bistro in Evergreen Park.
Follow the Rovers
The Shannon Rovers are a famous Irish pipe band that lifts spirits wherever they go with their brief but triumphant performances. They post their whereabouts on social media and you can build an itinerary around their whereabouts.
Hold Court
Finally, here’s a nice and easy strategy that can keep you close to home. Lucky for you, Irish pubs are one of the most ubiquitous institutions on earth. From Perth to Portland to Phnom Penh you can find something that passes as an Irish Pub. And if you’re in Chicago, chances are good that there is one within walking distance of your front door. This strategy involves you going to your nearest Irish pub, grabbing a stool or table and settling in for an afternoon. You’re not going anywhere for a while. Rather, you nurse a pint while various friends and acquaintances eventually pass through and strike up impromptu conversation.
Chicago “Pub” Map
Here’s a map of all the before-mentiond places plotted along with a slew of others. There’s tabs for true Irish pubs and kinda-sorta Irish pubs, etc.
Kerry Talk
This weekend always reminds me of my mother-in-law, Marie (Dennehy) Karas for whom I wrote a book that is a collection of all her amazing Irish phrases.